Ceiling Lights

The main types are oyster lights (a flat round or square diffuser that sits on the ceiling), flush mounts (a decorative fitting that hugs the ceiling), semi-flush mounts (a short stem drops the fitting 100mm to 300mm), close to ceiling lights (several globes under one canopy), DIY batten fix shades that clip over a bayonet holder, LED battens and surface mounted downlights. Pendants, chandeliers and ceiling fans hang from the ceiling and are sold in their own ranges. For a room-by-room walk through all twelve types, read how to choose the right ceiling light.

Neither is better; they do different jobs. A ceiling light is one fitting on an existing point, so it is the quickest upgrade for a bedroom, hallway or laundry. Downlights spread light across big open-plan rooms and kitchen benches but need holes, clearances and more labour. Most homes use a central ceiling light in the smaller rooms and downlights in the living and kitchen zones.

Measure the room first. Under 8 square metres, a 250 to 300mm fitting is enough. Standard bedrooms take 300 to 400mm. Living areas and kitchens want 400mm or more, or two fittings in a long room. Then check the diameter in millimetres across the widest point before you order, because a size word like small or large means something different on every range. The lumen figures for each size are in the sizing section of our guide below.

Warm white (3000K) for bedrooms and living rooms, cool white (4000K) for kitchens, bathrooms and laundries. A tri-colour fitting has a switch that lets you choose between 3000K, 4000K and 5000K once it is installed, so you are never locked in.

Slimline LED oysters and true flush mounts under 100mm deep. Skip semi-flush and close to ceiling fittings unless the ceiling is 2.7m or higher. Use the Height filter on this page to see the slimmest options.

Only if it is not hardwired. Anything that connects to 240V house wiring, including swapping one oyster for another, needs a licensed electrician. DIY batten fix shades that clip onto an existing bayonet holder, and plug-in fittings, are the legal do-it-yourself options.

No. A DIY batten fix shade is designed to clip straight over the bayonet batten holder that is already on your ceiling, so the holder is not in the box. That is what makes it the one ceiling light you can fit yourself in Australia without an electrician. If your ceiling has no holder, or the existing holder needs replacing, that is licensed electrical work, so either book an electrician or choose a hardwired oyster or flush mount and have it installed at the same time.

Yes, as long as the fitting is rated for moisture. Choose a ceiling light rated IP44 or higher for bathrooms, ensuites and laundries so it is protected from steam and splashes. Keep it over the vanity or in the general bathroom area, not inside the shower recess or directly above the bath, and run the exhaust fan so steam does not sit in the fitting. The IP rating is shown on the product page and in the IP Rating filter.

First check whether the fitting takes a replaceable globe (B22, E27 or E14). If it does, a new globe usually solves it. Most LED oysters are integrated, so a failed LED module or driver means the fitting is replaced as a unit by a licensed electrician. Check the warranty first: LED ceiling light warranties are typically two to five years and the exact term is on each product page, and keep your electrician's invoice or certificate of compliance because suppliers ask for it. Flickering on a dimmer is usually an incompatible dimmer rather than a failed light, and an older oyster base can often be modernised with an LED conversion kit instead of a full replacement.

That pattern is almost always ripple control, a high-frequency signal your electricity distributor sends through the mains in the evening peak to switch off-peak hot water systems. It is common across NSW and Queensland, and some LED drivers pick it up as a shimmer or flicker while the signal runs. Swapping globes or fittings will not stop it. A licensed electrician can fit a ripple signal filter at your switchboard, and fittings with better quality drivers are far less affected. Flicker that only happens when dimmed is a different problem, usually an incompatible dimmer.